Tuesday 11 February 2014

Hotel Review: Hlemmur Square in Reykjavik, Iceland

This centrally located property, which opened in June, combines a hotel and a hostel under one roof.
Rates
Rates for a hostel bed start at 2,500 Icelandic kronur, or $22 at 113 kronur to the dollar; hotel rooms, from 20,000 kronur ($176).

Basics

Hlemmur Square is emblematic of a new breed of stylish hostel-hotel hybrid that offers comfortable hotel rooms and spiffed-up dorms under the same roof. Opened in June in downtown Reykjavik, the property is the creation of the hotelier Klaus Ortlieb, whose other projects include the Gotham Hotel in New York City. The five-story building, which dates back to the 1930s, has 180 hostel beds in shared dorms spread across two floors, and 17 hotel rooms on a separate floor. More rooms are to be completed on the other two floors. But at the end of the tourist season in August, the vibe in the unfinished lobby, with a few chairs but no rugs or drapes, was all backpacker and no bellhop — travelers swapping stories, even a tent pitched on the concrete floor one night.

Location

The property is centrally located on Laugavegur, downtown Reykjavik’s main street, but it is a few blocks removed from the busiest (and noisiest) night-life area that roars on weekends until the early-morning hours. The city’s waterfront promenade is three blocks away.

The Room

A few years beyond my backpacking days, I opted for a hotel room with a private bath. The room was simply yet tastefully decorated with a white love seat, a wooden coffee table and a shaggy brown rug. The exceptionally comfortable king bed was topped with a cloudlike duvet and a pile of fluffy pillows. There was a flat-screen TV, a safe, a minibar filled with snacks, and a phone with unmarked buttons that lacked a much-needed instruction manual. A bright orange wall added a pop of color to the neutral-toned furnishings.

The Bathroom

Spotless, tiled in black, white and gray, and so spacious that there was even a small reading nook with rocking chair and book-topped side table. Towels were plush and plentiful, and toiletries were from C. O. Bigelow. Curiously, there were no blinds or curtains for the large bathroom windows — an issue because one bathroom door opened onto a wraparound terrace that was accessible from other guest rooms. Only once during my stay did someone wander past at an inopportune moment, but once was enough. After that, I ran the shower to fog up the windows before disrobing — a waste of time and water.

Dining

The 24-hour room service was not available during my stay (or at press time). A kitchen opened recently with a full breakfast and an all-day menu that can be served in the lobby or delivered to rooms.

Amenities

The hotel’s website (at the time of my booking) made some promises that went unfulfilled. During my August stay, the in-house bar and restaurant scheduled to open in early summer were not ready. The bar opened this fall, with live music and about 100 different craft beers. The restaurant opening has been postponed until later this year. The lobby was a work in progress, but a new reception desk and dĂ©cor have since been installed. Wi-Fi was free, but slow in the room.

Bottom Line

More comfortable than a hostel, but with fewer services than one would expect from a standard hotel, Hlemmur Square hits the mark for those looking for an upgrade from the dorms.  

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